Poised to Soar

As a continuation to last year, Karnataka tourism had arranged a get together branded as "Connect 2008" with a tag line - “Poised to Soar". Day long deliberation which had hardly any resonance to the ground realities left a lot of bitter taste and fear for the future of tourism in destinations.

Well attended by the industry, the morning session included presentations by Tourism department officials. All the trumpeting about achievements through presentation was literally shot down with One Tight Slap by the CEO of Bangalore International Airport Ltd, Mr Albert Brunner who show cased the sad scenario Indian tourism is in! Why is it that we still need a foreginer to call the spade a spade? All he did was to put some points in his slides about traveller’s expectations and what was available for them in destinations! Simple presentation but very powerful.

Except for some insightful remarks on online travel bookings, from Amit Saberwal who represented Make My Trip.com and invocation by a local singer, there was nothing noticeable in the morning session.

It was quite unbelievable even in the later sessions that NOT A SINGLE presentation other than Minja Yang from UNESCO ,who mentioned 'People', or 'Communities' while explaining their work. The discussions were all around infrastructure, buildings, resorts and hotels. Oh, of course there was someone giving ideas of various segments in the business where you should invest, "if you want to make BIG money"...

How can I forget the guy from KUONI destination Management who redefined 'Rural tourism' as 'Pollution free tourism'. He also showed us what could probably be the future in terms of having the courage to use the term 'Responsible Tourism' even though it was so obvious that they had no sense of what it was all about. Eco tourism, rural tourism, package tourism and now Responsible Tourism. He said, 'We also support Responsible Tourism that brings in the benefits of the business to local people'. On asked to quantify KUONI 's contribution to RT in India, pat came the reply. “I can't quantify that but we are members of TOTF". How easy it's to be Responsible these days!

Hearing the possibilities for Karnataka tourism because of "Destination Fatigue" in other places like Kerala and Goa, I was so tempted to stand up and ask them if they had any idea on what was happening in Gokarna where the 'fatigued backpacker's exodus' from Goan beaches is now a reality. The sleepy coastal town known for pilgrimage and beautiful beaches is being butchered by irresponsible tourists and an administration that has no foresight. If not intervened ASAP, Gokarna will be synonymous to garbage and drugs. According to our local sources, even the strong Brahmin communities that helped maintained the cultural richness of the areas and even those who kept away from the drug pushing back-packers are now falling into the trap of drug business.

A destination where average daily spending hardly crosses INR 500 ( including food and drinks, accommodation, transportation, Internet and purchase of some souvenirs) per foreign tourist, some of the illegal shacks are apparently known to be making a profit of INR 2000000 in just six months of the peak season. According to our contacts that have seen it all, that money is coming from selling drugs.

What irritated me the most was the callous statement that Karnataka as a destination will benefit from the destination fatigue of other states! No one was interested in giving an answer when asked how they are planning to handle that traffic. Very diplomatically they requested me to ask questions that mattered to the 'present session' on the challenges of infrastructure. Interesting!

Poised to 'Sore'?

Bangalore © GP 2008

Demolition Part II

Paradise Beach in Gokarna
Om, Half Moon and Paradise are the three stunningly beautiful, panoramic beaches of Gokarna.

During our 2 hours of beach trek covering these beaches and adjacent hills, we hardly came across any trekkers. Half Moon beach only had a 'Sadhu' who had come all the way from Ayodha in his saffron rob, sitting peacefully in a clay hutment. It seems he travels through out the year across the country. A month in Gokarna and he said he will be moving to Goa, where he has 'friends'.

This was just before the sunset and not a single soul.

By the time we reached Paradise, we saw a lot of new 'eco-friendly' constructions coming up on the hillocks. Bamboo, coconut palm leaves, coir, mud and cow dung was all that they use to make these illegal shacks. All of them are powered by solar energy and have Internet access, restaurants and even small libraries consisting of 'left-over books' from previous travellers.

Considering the 'legal' buildings that damage the environment in rest of Gokarana, I found these shacks a wonderful way of living. Most of the shacks, especially those in the Paradise beach gets fresh water from the near by springs from the mountains. Compared to the shitty Town beach, these beaches are clean and no trace of waste anywhere. It literally felt like a Paradise.

New shacks coming up every year

I don't know how they are processing the waste, certainly it is not going back to the Panchayat facility, most probably its being burnt near the shacks itself or even dumped into the sea somewhere.

In any case, my enthusiasm about the 'eco-friendly' construction didn't last beyond few minutes when Anjali asked me to look around the shacks properly. A closer look revealed that many portions of the hillocks have been demolished using dynamites, so that the shacks can be positioned in scenic locations!

This shack was constructed after using dynamites to remove the hillock!

In some part of this small temple town, Government authorities are chasing down even small encroachments on to the streets. Were as on the distant beaches like Paradise, encroacher's are using dynamites to setup new shacks.

Even after many anonymous calls from our local friends to the forest and police departments, no action has been taken and of course will not be taken! Who the hell is going to trek that long distance over the mountains and all these beaches to reach the shacks and check the status? Instead its easy to take a bribe and sit in the comforts of your office).

Why on the earth can't we strike a balance ?
Bangalore © GP 2007

Demolition drive in Gokarna Part 1

wide streets after the self demolition by traders
Last time I was in Gokarna, the streets were peaceful, residents and travellers were laid back. This time, there was a flurry of activities. Knowing that the political big wigs are not going to bother him with corrupt intervention (There is no elected Government in Karnataka right now and is under Governors rule), the district administration is on a demolition drive in Gokarna.

One of the reasons why Gokarna is an attraction for travellers!
After surveying and identifying the encroachments, local DC has given notices asking them to demolish the encroachments, or they have the option to have the Government demolish and pay for that too. Without moving a machinery from their side, Government has managed to remove most of the encroachments and streets of Gokarna and the places looks so different.

More than 1.5 metres of the wall is gone!

It's only now one can see the massive pillars of Brahmin houses behind all the small shacks and shops. Earlier even Shamianas were out into the street, but now you can see decorations, paintings and pictures on the house walls which were earlier covered.

Wonder how long this DC will stay in power!

Old car new car! (temple chariot in the streets of Gokarna)

Bangalore GP © 2007